(Published in Trips and Journeys, May/June 2005, www.tripsandjourneys.com)

 

"The River Road winds
through vegetable cultivation—anything for a soup or salad basically. You might see workers planting or tending asparagus, carrots, pumpkins, or tomatoes, the smell of cut cabbages may waft across the fields, or the dust from a tractor plowing may tickle your nose."

You may have visited Monterey Bay Aquarium, walked along Cannery Row, or wandered through the Steinbeck Center in Salinas. How about a drive to bring alive some of the countryside that Steinbeck wrote about in his celebrated books? Along the way you can stop to sample some local wines, and visit one of California's old Missions.

Many say that central California is the "Salad Basket of the World," and if you drive into the valley from Salinas you'll see why: Acres of bright green lettuce, fields of dark green broccoli plants, patches of cabbages, rows of neat vines, a green and brown patchwork, huge multi-colored, double-life-size cutouts of farm workers in the fields.

There are two valley drives: the Carmel Valley, closer to the coast, and the Salinas Valley. We like the Salinas Valley drive, as it's much quieter, with less traffic. The best way to do this in a half-day trip is to drive the River Road and other back roads, which run roughly parallel to Highway 101.

For about 23 miles the River Road winds through vegetable cultivation—anything for a soup or salad basically. You might see workers planting or tending asparagus, carrots, pumpkins, or tomatoes, the smell of cut cabbages may waft across the fields, or the dust from a tractor plowing may tickle your nose. South of that, rows of vineyards stretch to the foothills.  

Weathered redwood barns and horse ranches with dusty paddocks also dot the countryside: horse-riding is a popular pastime, and some ranches offer weekend horse camps for kids. Depending on the time of year, you may see a wide, slow-moving track of water, or dry weeds, in the Salinas River bed.

It's a flat valley, rugged brown mountains rising in the distance (the Santa Lucia mountains, on your right as you drive south, the Gabilan mountains further off on your left). An amazing amount of irrigation makes these patches very green, but otherwise it's dry and dusty. This is a specialized form of agriculture, very labor-intensive, and there are still many migrant workers, as in Steinbeck's time. He was a controversial figure, as his descriptions of the agricultural fields were often raw, and exposed wretched conditions.

About 25 miles south of Highway 68 take the left fork onto Fort Romie Road. A few miles further on, take a right turn to Soledad Mission. Built in 1791 by Father Ferman Lasuen, it was the 13th in California's chain of missions (founded by Father Junipero Serra, who is buried at the Carmel Mission). It's mostly ruined now, but they've reconstructed the chapel (with an unusual Virgin in black, the Mother of Sorrow), part of the cloisters, and buildings along the cloisters (now a little museum). White-washed, with an old bell (like those seen on poles along the Camino Real), it's quiet and peaceful, inviting reflection on the past. You can also picnic close to very old vines, with good views of the valley. The Mission is now promoting Mission olive oil, and in July and September hosts lively fiestas. (Open daily 10 a.m. - 4 p.m., except Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day).

Now for some wine tasting. Growers match wine grape varieties to the climatic regions and soil types. Salinas Valley's weather is especially suited for cooler grape varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay.

A number of vineyards have tasting rooms, but our three favorites are Paraiso Springs; Smith, Hook & Hahn; and Scheid.

Fort Romie Road next crosses Arroyo Seco Road. Turn right and after about two miles you intersect with Foothills Road. Across from the fork, a road leads up to Paraiso Springs Vineyard (38060 Paraiso Springs Road, Soledad, 831/678-0300, free tasting 12-4 p.m. weekdays, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. weekends, www.paraisovineyards.com). Because it's up on a small hill there's a sweeping view out over the valley. The edge gardens have banks of purple flowers, which may be teeming with ruby-throated humming birds - a real treat to see. The tasting room is nicely set out, with other goods for sale, and a terrace overlooks the immediate vineyards and the valley, a great place to sit on a good day. They have an excellent Riesling wine.

Left back along Foothills Road is Hahn (37700 Foothill Road, Soledad, 831-678-2132, tasting daily 11 a.m. - 4 p.m., www.hahnestates.com). It's also up a hill, overlooking the site where the first vineyards for Soledad Mission were planted in the 1770s. One tasting room is in the house, another (reserved) in a huge old redwood barrel. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are good. Views out across the valley, to the Gabilan Mountains, are wonderful. This vineyard is often reserved for special functions, so check beforehand if it's open to the public.

Next, navigate your way to Scheid; road signs are small and not clearly placed, but it's well worth it. Return to the intersection of Fort Romie and Arroyo Seco and turn right (south) on Arroyo Seco, also called G17 here. After about 6 miles look for the G16 left to Greenfield. (Greenfield is the "Broccoli Capital" and the summer broccoli festival has many different broccoli dishes, such as deep-fried broccoli and even broccoli ice cream!). Follow it to Highway 101. Go south on 101 about 6 miles. Scheid is next to 101 and has a direct exit (look for the huge US flag on a flagpole). The tasting room is in a remodeled old barn and the staff is especially friendly and knowledgeable. The wines are superb, especially Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Noir (1972 Hobson Avenue, Greenfield, 831/386-0316, tasting daily 10 a.m. - 5 p.m., www.scheidwines.com).

If You Go
-You can start either in Monterey or Salinas, as the River Road is south off Highway 68, which runs between the two cities. The turn-off is closer to Salinas, where Highway 68 becomes a divided road.
-Pick up a Wine Tasting in Monterey County map, or check www.montereywines.org 
-Information on Salinas at www.oldtownsalinas.com 
-Generally, it's cheaper to stay in Salinas than in Monterey. There are many chain hotels along Highway 101, such as the Good Night Inn, doubles $40.

Where to Eat
In Salinas, small shops and restaurants line Main Street. One block from the Steinbeck Center, on the corner, is Salinas Valley Fish House. A green and white décor and full-length windows facing the street create a nice atmosphere. Good menu too, but be careful about ordering the specials without checking the prices first.
Directly opposite is First Awakenings, a great place for breakfast or lunch. It's also very popular and you may have to wait for a table but it's worthwhile—good hearty food and huge servings. (171 Main Street, 831/784-1125).
Next door, is the Monterey Coast Brewery. You can test a range of tasty local beers, brewed in six or seven large copper tanks behind the bar. The dining area has good food—better than usual pub grub

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